Fried chicken for lunch at The Dutch

Because sometimes you just need to go for it. To sink your teeth into the crunch of the golden skin and the moist (ew - that word) chicken inside. Andrew Carmellini - you are the man. We love your chix.

The best thing you can do for yourself. Kind of. Besides Soul Cycle and juicing, of course.

Fresh off Top Chef, spicy (and single!) - Q&A with Top Chef-testant Grayson Schmitz

Another one of our favorite New York chefs has been eliminated from Bravo TV’s Top Chef Texas. Grayson Schmitz was sent home from the cooking competition, when Pee Wee Herman was the guest judge and her stuffed chicken was considered all wrong. She was a bit bummed about having him critique her food in the first place, since she didn’t really consider him to be much of a food expert. 

From chatting with her, I learned she does a mean "Ha Ha" Pee Wee impression, she is not afraid to be herself and is confident in who she is and where she is from, even if in Wisconsin the portions might be a bit bigger. It was great to find out more about where she eats in New York City, her side of the story about the “like a meatball” conversation with Tom, her thoughts on the infamous frog song, and much more.
By Michelle Levine, Contributing Writer

What are your favorite New York City restaurants and where do you like to go on your day off?

“I absolutely love ABC Kitchen. It’s delicious and really fresh” she said. “On a chill day, where I hang out after work, at like 1:00 in the morning is ...I have kind of like a Cheers Wine bar in the neighborhood. It’s called Cava; it’s on 80th between Amsterdam and Columbus and it’s amazing. I know the owner. I have been living in this neighborhood for a few years now” she explained. “I met the owner and made friends with [him] right away; his name is Carlos. And basically for this neighborhood a lot of people in my industry wind up going there after work.  So, John Fraser [chef at Dovetail] funny enough actually lives below me so I see him at Cava often since he is a neighborhood guy and a Chefee. So that definitely is one of my favorite places to go late night. Eating- wise, Tertulia. I was just there last night and it was just as delicious as I remember the first time."

How was bartending for Andy Cohen on Watch What Happens Live?

“Considering I am not a bartender, it was alright (laughs). It was fun talking to Andy [Cohen] and Tom [Colicchio] because we never really get to talk. It actually cleared my head a little bit about the meatball incident since Tom thought it was funny. And I was like THANK GOD! Because I would never disrespect that man and he is amazing and he does really great things for us and he is almost like a mentor now. I just really didn’t want him to be rubbed the wrong way from that whole exchange in the episode” she said. “Also, It was great to see Carla [Hall] because I know she is based in DC but she also has an apartment on the Upper West Side as well, so I see her every once in a while because we live in the same neighborhood, so it was good to see her again.”

I was curious about the meatball conversation too and if people had given you slack for it? They kept showing that clip over and over.

“Yeah, I mean people really seemed to enjoy that one. I can’t even tell you how many tweets I got that just said “like a meatball?” I am like OMG really?! And until now people still say meatball stuff (laughs). So I think it was fun for people to watch one of the contestants stand up to Tom because he is more or less the scarier judge….you would not want to f**k with Tom. I never really went up against him before because when he is telling you all of his critiques [you remember] the guy has a billion years of experience. He is usually right. But in this incident when he is ripping down my chicken salad I am just thinking in my head.. but really, she made a meatball, so leave me alone. [Also] I kind of think he maybe understood what I was saying because he did kind of shut up. It was a fun interaction. He is the man."

The other funny saying from you this season was “sex in the mouth.” 

“That is going on zero hours of sleep. So I don’t know what possessed me to say that. Pretty much anything that comes across my mind I say. I don’t usually hold back, so, um yea. That just came out."

So, do you have any other hidden talents? I was laughing when you did the frog song. How do you know the frog song and do you sing it a lot?

“Yeah, I do the frog song every single day! NO. That is a total joke! I do not. I learned that when I was really little. I used to go to Girl Scout Camp every summer. Camp Evelyn where I grew up… and that was one of our camp fire songs and everyone knew it and we all sang it together. You wouldn’t believe the response I got from the song. It is insane. They all want to learn it and stuff and I had a few counselors that I had when I was little at camp contact me and saying “I think I was your counselor. Did you go to Camp Evelyn?” which was hilarious” she explained. "Also, just a lot of people liked it I guess because they like to feel a connection with the chef they are routing for and I think that I was always very real and down to earth and when you do something like the frog song on national television, people either love it or hate it. People either love it because it’s funny and you had the balls to do something like that or they think you are [ridiculous] and luckily for me, more people thought it was really fun and showed a good side of my personality.”

I also wanted to find out more about your experience in culinary school in New York. What was the most valuable thing you took away from it?

“I mean that was so long ago. I suppose the most valuable thing was just the straight up skill-set that we built there. A lot of chefs say “I didn’t need to go to culinary school; it was just a waste of money.”  But for me, that is absolutely not true. I needed culinary school; I needed to have that baseline and it definitely gave me the platform for what I needed for the rest of my career, and I took so much out of it. I learned so much at the CIA.”

Do you keep in touch with Ty-Lor and support each other in NYC?

“Oh yeah, totally. We definitely support each other. Actually when we got back from taping this summer in Texas, we were both in between jobs at the moment, so I was doing recipe development at Olivier Cheng  (a high end catering company in the city) and Ty was like “oh I really need some work” so I actually brought him in and he works with them now as well and it is kind of like our freelance outlet when we are not doing other stuff. So yeah, we definitely support each other and I am definitely going to try to make it to his pop-up."

Great, so what do you have in the works and how would New Yorkers get in touch with you? Are you focusing on catering or do you have a restaurant in the works? What are your plans?

“Well, basically I have been doing a lot of different events where people will call me to do wine dinners and stuff. I have been working with my sister a lot, which is kind of insane because we didn’t really get along much in our lives before and all of a sudden this whole experience has brought us together; we are like an oiled team, it is kind of amazing. She does the front of the house and all the event planning and I obviously do the back of the house and we meet in the middle and we are kind of hilarious while we do it. Very entertaining for people. I kind of want that to go somewhere because I think we are a great team and so far the dinners that we have done have been super successful. I think I am doing a wine dinner at the restaurant I used to be Chef de Cuisine, Villa Pacri."

Do you have any Valentine’s Day plans?

“Um, no. I am completely single. I will probably be cooking in a kitchen somewhere. I know it is kind of sad, right? You can say it.” 

Nothing 'Boring' about him - Q&A with Top Chef Ty-Lör Boring

by Michelle Levine, Contributing Writer 

At EE, we were thrilled when we found out that a few NYC chefs were represented on this season of Bravo TV’s cooking competition show Top Chef.  Amongst the talented chefs heating up the kitchen, Ty-Lör Boring, formerly of New York City’s Almond restaurant, made a solid appearance. But Restaurant Wars proved to be a challenge and he was sent to pack up his knives and go when his lettuce wraps did less then impress the judges.

Chef Ty-Lör Boring
Photo credit: Bravo TV

Though his chances to become the next Top Chef have come to an end, this talented chef has plenty in the works including an upcoming pop-up restaurant. He shared details about it, in the following Q&A. Learn more about who he is as a chef, including where he likes to dine in New York City and who he looks up to in the culinary industry, with the interview below:

Was your experience on Top Chef what you expected? How was Last Chance Kitchen?

My experience on Top Chef was a once in a lifetime experience that taught me about being the best chef I can be everyday as well as giving me the opportunity to compete with some of the best chefs in the country.  My shot on Last Chance Kitchen was the ultimate test of my skills as a pastry chef in 30 minutes and an amazing opportunity to perform in the competition again.

What went wrong on Restaurant Wars? Have you recreated the Thai shrimp dish since the show?

Restaurant Wars is a very unique experience.  I don't know of any other situation where 4 people must plan, shop, decorate, prep and cook in only 10 hours for a restaurant that opens to serve 120 people in the first 90 minutes of service.   I have been making versions of the lettuce cups for years. HOWEVER, a lot of the products were not available in the drought in Texas this summer.  There were a host of things that could have been different about my Thai lettuce cups but the biggest problem was seasoning.  A little salt, or in this case fish sauce and Thai chilies, could have kept me in the competition.

What were your most memorable moments from the show?

The best moments of the show were the friendships that I formed with the other chefs.  A case of Shinerbock in the stew room after a tough elimination challenge can bring out some amazing stories from a room full of chefs.

What are your favorite restaurants in NYC right now?

Mile End, Do or Dine, Roberta's, Torrisi Italian Specialties, Parm, The Dutch, & M.Wells (in absentia).

Who are the local Chefs you admire?

See above for restaurants/chefs I admire as well as my personal NYC chef mentors: Derrick VanDuzer, Craig Wallen & Jason Weiner.

If you had to pick a favorite dish from your previous employer, Almond restaurant, what would it be?

Chef Jason Weiner makes best Monkfish Cioppino. Check it out. 

Are there any current NYC food trends you love or hate?

I enjoy the new paradigm of DIY/guerilla approaches to eating that are being articulated not only in NYC, but around the world.

What do you drink after a long day/night in the kitchen?

1664 is my house beer of choice, neat pours of Old Overholt help with the extra tough nights.

What are the top ingredients you always have on hand, in your own refrigerator?

Harmless Harvest Coconut Water.  It's the only guaranteed item in my fridge.

Any details to share about your fashion week pop-up restaurant?

The Pop Up is exciting since it is my first solo appearance in NYC cooking only my food!  It will be held at the City Grit space, which is an industrial antiques store by day and restaurant by night and housed in the old St. Patrick’s Elementary building (the oldest catholic elementary school in the city and Martin Scorsese's alma mater).   It is called T.B.D. and for 6 nights only.  I will prepare a five-course prix-fixe menu that highlights farm-to-table cuisine, with touches of my Asian and French training.  Tickets are already 50% sold out and available here.

Do you have any upcoming media appearances in the works?

February & March are busy.  REALLY BUSY.  I am opening a pop-up restaurant called TBD (Ty-Lör Boring Dinners) at CityGrit in NoLita at the beginning of NYC Fashion Week February 6-11.

I am currently booked for private catering events during Fashion Week in both Milan & Paris, Feb 22 - Mar 05. I will return to San Antonio to compete in the Culinary Institute of America's 3rd Annual Paella Challenge on Sun Mar 11, 2012.  I will return to NYC to be a VIP chef @ THE VILLAGE VOICE’S CHOICE EATS on Tue Mar 13.  And these are just the confirmed events.

What are your other plans for the future?

I am currently looking at real estate in downtown Manhattan for a brick & mortar authentic, experiential Kansas-City style BBQ joint. I also want to have a secret passageway to a Prohibition-esque, mafioso-style speakeasy with an Asian-themed chef’s table tasting menu.


Follow Chef Ty-Lör Boring on Twitter
Like Chef Ty-Lör Boring on Facebook

Chef Harold Dieterle, Perilla & Kin Shop

Chef Harold Dieterle

Q&A with Chef Harold Dieterle

by Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer

Commuting up and down Sixth Avenue is where you will find Chef Harold Dieterle most days of the week as he splits his time between his two restaurants, Perilla and Kin Shop. As if maintaining two unique ventures isn't enough, Harold is working hard on a third project expected to open in Brooklyn early this year. He took a few minutes out of his crazy day to tell us more about this venture, along with his thoughts about being on Top Chef and why he loves working with sawtooth so much.

If you could describe Perilla in one word, what would it be?                       

Neighborhood-y – does that work?

Describe your ideal Perilla meal.                       

Spicy Duck Meatballs, perhaps the Hanger Steak and a side of the Farro Risotto.   

Spicy Duck Meatballs at Perilla

       

Biggest celebrity you met in the restaurant?                        

We like to keep things quiet if a celebrity comes in.  

Besides Perilla, what's your favorite restaurant in NYC?                        

Can I say Kin Shop? I love Dovetail on the Upper West Side.        

How do you split your time between Perilla and Kin Shop?                       

About 50/50. It’s nice having them only a few minutes away from one another.       

You and Chef Angela Sosa seem to have quite the difference of sports opinions on Twitter. How did you two become so close?                        

Even though there are so many restaurants and chefs in the city it’s surprisingly a small world. He’s a good guy.      

What was it like being on Top Chef? It must feel like a lifetime ago!                         

It sure does. It was a good opportunity and it certainly helped me take that next step.

Favorite non-kitchen gadget?                       

Hmm. That’s a tough one. I’m a big Puma sneaker guy. I also love the signed photo we have at Kin Shop of the Beastie Boys.

What's your biggest kitchen mess-up?

I sliced my thumb pretty bad back in 1998. I was deboning some steak and the knife just slipped right down to the bone. Of course I did the smart thing and cauterized the wound on the flat-top grill. After finishing service I went to the ER and had to get 32 stitches.        

What's the hardest ingredient to work with?                        

Bad ingredients. If you don’t start with quality product you already have an uphill battle.      

 

Massaman Curry Braised Goat with fried shallots, purple yams,
mustard greens and peanuts at Kin Shop. 

Any interesting ingredient you've been incorporating lately?

I love sunchokes and have been using them a lot at Perilla lately. They are great raw or roasted. Sawtooth is an ingredient I use as well. It’s ten times better than cilantro and I use it in curry pastes.    

   

What three ingredients can you not live without?                       

Salt, crab, and mozzarella cheese.

Food trend you hate most?                       

I like burgers and pizza, but I’m tired of the trend. It’s a little overdone at this point. 

       

Is there anything you won't eat?                        

I’m not a fan of raw bell peppers.

If you walked out to compete in Iron Chef, what secret ingredient would make you happiest to see pulled out?                       

Crab would be a lot fun. I like King Crab the most, but I’ll eat and cook with Dungeness, Blue, Snow, Stone, and Peekytoe as well.

Fill in the blank:  "When I meet people at a party and I tell them I'm a chef, they always...."                        

If they don’t say something about Top Chef, Perilla, or Kin Shop the next question is usually “Where?”.

What's next?                               

I’ll be opening The Marrow with my business partner, Alicia Nosenzo, in Hotel 718 – it’s in Downtown Brooklyn. It’ll open sometime in early 2012.

Follow Chef Harold on Twitter

Like Chef Harold on Facebook

wEE recommend Perilla for: Date Night, West Village Wine List, Delicious Brunch with the girls, Something on the Menu for Everyone

wEE recommend Kin Shop for: Great lunch deal downtown, Thai dinner in the Village, Asian restaurant with great beer/wine list. 

wEE Love Valentine's Day Edition

The EE team has been getting a ton of Valentine's Day queries lately from singles, new couples and the hot and heavy lova-lovahs. There are perfect places all around Manhattan for every stage of your relationship. Whether it be 3 weeks, 3 months, 3 years - wEE got you covered! 

Apotheke 

Three Weeks - Cocktails & Conversation 

There is no need to sit down to a 8-course tasting menu if you're not even sure you can get through 8 weeks with this person. Obviously, this relationship is as fresh as veggies at the greenmarket. Show that special someone that you're sweet on them without going overboard. 

Apotheke 9 Doyers Street (nr. Bowery) A cocktail from this speakeasy/den of vice might be just what Cupid ordered to take your relationship to the next level. Enjoy live jazz on Tuesday night (this is every Tuesday, FYI) as you sip one of their heavenly elixers like The Deal Closer (Cucumber, vodka, local Chinatown aphrodisiacs, mint, lime & vanilla essence). 

Ward III111 Reade Street (nr. Chambers St.) The guys at

Ward III

Ward III certainly know how to seduce their ladies... or so we've heard. On Valentine's Day, they will feature three gourmet chocolates accompanied by Scotch and Bourbon whiskey to match. ($20) As the night continues, create your own cocktail with the things you know and love in your libation. Select your spirit, texture, spice, flavor and fruit and your drink will be made just the way you want it. The options are endless - If you want a effervescent gin martini with rosemary and ginger that is savory and has a hint of lime, this is entirely possible.

Wine & Roses

Wine & Roses 286 Columbus Avenue (nr. West 73rd St.) Romantic, dim lighting, a selection of over
100 bottles of wine and 24 by the glass, and delicious small plates, how could you go wrong? They don't accept reservations, but try to snag a corner booth to get cozy and enjoy your date. Wallet-friendly as well, which is always a plus.

Three Months - No Dives Allowed - Take 'em to Dinner! 

The John Dory Oyster Bar

Staying monogamous for three months is significant, so don't even think of taking your date anywhere with paper napkins and sawdust on the floor. However, this doesn't mean you need to drop a paycheck and be delinquent on your rent, either. Here are some classy, casual-elegant (yes, that's a thing) recommendations that are sure to please.

Fedora 239 W. 4th Street (nr. Charles Street) Chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly is bringing that loving feeling to his Valentine's Day menu with a 6-course menu ($80) featuring heavenly dishes such as tuna tartare with salmon roe and smoked cream. For dessert, enjoy a decadent chocolate pudding with peanuts and salted caramel. Pair this with mixologist Brian Bartel's Cherry Lane cocktail (Sparkling Brut Rose, sweet & dry vermouth, brandied cherry juice and Fedora orange bitters) and you've got a night to remember. 

The John Dory Oyster Bar 1196 Broadway (nr. 29th St.) Nothing says romance like Hama Hama oysters with champagne sorbet, or venison wrapped in lardo with smoked oyster jus. April Bloomfield really brings it at the Dory with a $75 Valentine's Day prix fixe. If you are not partaking in the optional wine pairing, make sure to pair one of your courses with their delicious Negroni - it's the best in town. After dinner, head to the lounge in the Ace Hotel for a nightcap on one those big cozy couches. 

Takashi

Takashi 456 Hudson Street (nr. Barrow St.) It doesn't get better than feeding your Valentine ribeye or beef tongue with chopsticks and washing it down with cold, crisp sake. Make sure to try the fonduta, Takashi's take on Japanese grilled meats and veggies that you grill up and of course, feed to each other. Well, that part is optional, but you get the idea.

Three Years - Rekindle the Romance & Get Creative 

At this point, you two are pretty comfortable with each other and the days of wining and dining are over, but Valentine's Day calls for something a little extra special. Get out of your couple's funk and check out these fun, inventive dinners and events that are sure to bring that spontaneous spark back into your relationship. 

Museum  of  Sex

Marc Forgione 134 Reade Street (nr. Hudson St.) This warm, rustic restaurant with a kitchen helmed by the newest Iron Chef, Marc Forgione is offering a Valentine's Day Aphrodisiac 7-course Tasting Menu ($125) - with sexy dishes that are sure to set the mood, how could you go wrong with lobster on a bed of Israeli couscous drizzled with a bacon & egg sabione? Or how about tuna and passionfruit with a black truffle vinaigrette? This sure sounds like a feast that only Cupid could conjure up. Call 212-941-9401 to book your table for two.

Museum of Sex - Oralfix Aphrodisiac Elixir Bar 233 Fifth Avenue (nr. 27th Street) Not for the faint of heart, check out current exhibits like "The Sex Lives of Animals" and "Action: Sex and the Moving Image" then head downstairs to the elixir bar to sample aphrodisiacs that have been around for over 3,000 years to affect libido, fertility, potency, and attraction for centuries. With cocktails like the Frida Calor (Mezcal, tamarind, white cacao and a love potion) and small plates like truffles, lemon love bars, and figs and prosciutto we think this excursion is just what the love doctor ordered. 

Saxon + Parole

Saxon + Parole 316 Bowery (nr. Bleecker St.) The restaurant will be filled with romantic-al accoutrements to set the mood for your five-course menu ($90) that includes a seafood tower (we're guessing oysters will be a feature), sweet potato tortellini and warm cinnamon sugar doughnuts with vanilla cream and chocolate sauce. After dinner, head into the Madam Geneva bar for a complimentary Punch Drunk Love cocktail and enjoy sultry cabaret music by in-house
entertainment for the evening. 

Chef George Mendes, Aldea (Flatiron)

Bringing Mama Mendes' Flavor to Flatiron - Chef George Mendes tells us what makes Aldea extra special 

By Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer
January 12, 2012

Chef and Owner of the highly acclaimed restaurant Aldea, George Mendes has reinvented Portuguese cuisine and quickly become one of the most regarded chefs in New York. Having spent years under the eyes of Chef David Bouley, Martin Berasategui, and Alain Ducasse in countries across the world, Mendes has taken these experiences and essentially created his own cuisine. Using Portugal and Spain as his starting point, he then adds in his memories of growing up under Portuguese parents, personal flair, global inspirations, and seasonal ingredients to create the menu you will find at Aldea. It's quite a precise and delicious recipe for success.

If you could describe Aldea in one word, what would it be?

Spontaneous.

Describe your ideal Aldea meal.

Chefs tasting menu. It is where express my interpretation of my favorite meal...usually starting with a flurry of canapés, then right into one of my favorite things, foie gras. I draw a lot of inspiration from the sea, the rich flavors of sea urchin, beautifully cooked scallops, paired with heirloom vegetables, and usually ending with my spin on a classic Portuguese dish, Arroz de Pato.

Arroz de Pato
Photo credit: Sip, Chat, Chow

Biggest celebrity you met in the restaurant?

Jay-Z and Beyoncé

Do you find a lot of people coming in who have never tried Portuguese cuisine before? What do you tell them?

Yes, of course. We are one of the only Portuguese restaurants in NYC, so most people who live here are not exposed to that style of cooking.  What do I tell them?  Same thing I tell everyone, “Enjoy.”

Besides Aldea, what's your favorite restaurant in NYC?

Le Bernardin.

Who takes credit for you pursuing your love of Portuguese cuisine, mom or dad?

Both.

What was it like learning from the likes of Alain Ducasse, Alain Passard, and David Bouley?

Intense, awe-inspiring, a lot of hard work. They instilled a work ethic that continues to this day.

Are you still involved with Wallse in any respect?

Friendship.

What was the tipping point to leave Toqueville when you did?

I left to open ALDEA.

 What is your favorite kitchen gadget?

A sharp knife.

Favorite non-kitchen gadget?

My iPhone

Do you sometimes forget you work in an open kitchen?

Yes, the work is very focused, and intense. If a waiter happens to pick up the wrong food, or a cook makes a mistake, the whole chef’s counter will get an earful.

What's your biggest kitchen mess-up?

I sent pork to a vegetarian.

What's the hardest ingredient to work with?

People.

Any interesting ingredients you've been incorporating lately?

Burdock Root.

What three ingredients can you not live without?

Olive oil, butter and water.

What dish do you do best?

Shrimp “alhinho”, it is a take on a Portuguese classic, the sauce is very intense, and is sublime.  It has been on the menu since I opened.

Shrimp alhinho
Photo credit: Foodspotting

Food trend you hate most?

All of them.

Guilty food pleasure?

Kit-Kats and Gatorade.

Is there anything you won't eat?

Shad Roe, disgusting.

What's the last book you read?

Ferran: The Inside Story of El Bulli and The Man Who Reinvented Food. The man is genius.

What do you cook on your day off? What is your favorite go-to dish when cooking for yourself or loved ones?

I do not cook on my day off.  I live in New York and love to see what other chefs and friends are doing.  For the most part, we are a tight community that supports one another.

We are blessed by a vibrant food culture with world renowned chefs in NYC. What is your favorite aspect of being a chef in NY?

The sense of camaraderie.

If you walked out to compete in Iron Chef, what secret ingredient would make you happiest to see pulled out?

Garlic!

Where is your next vacation?

All my trips are work related in the foreseeable future, but Portugal is the one I am most excited about.

Fill in the blank:  "When I meet people at a party and I tell them I'm a chef, they always...."

I never tell people I am a chef.

What did you do for New Years?

 Worked at ALDEA.

Favorite music group?

Led Zepplin.

Sea urchin toast
Photo credit: Quest of a Gourmand

Will you ever take the sea urchin toast off the menu?

Never.

What's next?

Constant improvements to ALDEA.

Jody Williams brings big French flavor to Grove Street

Photo credit: Max Poglia

The minute Jody Williams walks into Buvette during a bustling lunch service, she is greeted by a slew of friends and Franchofiles that are enjoying every morsel of her new Gallic venture. The lively, "everybody knows your name" atmosphere at her West Village gastroteque is exactly as it should be; homey and inviting, with no aires about it.

As I chat with Williams on a brisk fall day, we sit outside next to the signature Buvette bike, a French two-wheeler that you imagine the owner to be a lithe French woman with baguettes and greens hanging outside the shopping basket. At the moment, it is filled to the brim with wine corks. Williams situates herself near the front door so she can keep an eye on her gastronomes that serve as the host, servers, sommeliers, bartenders and baristas. It's a place built on the traditional way of working where "you roll up your sleeves and do every job," Williams says.

She has a zen-like quality to her, speaking from the heart with a genuine passion for cooking, serving, learning and teaching people about food. Her best advice for those that are thinking about becoming a chef? "Learn at the source. Feed your soul. Give yourself time. It takes a decade to really master the craft of cooking and be able to transfer it into your freedom as a chef in the kitchen."

Mousse Au Chocolat
Photo credit: Felicia Jamieson

Williams learned from the source herself. Before she traveled around Europe, she began cooking in San Francisco, working as chief steward at the Four Seasons Clift while Mario Batali was working in the kitchen as sous chef. "I took the job at the Four Seasons to see if working in food was what I really wanted to do. Mario was inspiring and there was a great energy about him and it affirmed to me that [cooking] is something I was [going to] do," says Williams.

Buvette at 42 Grove Street
Photo credit: Buvette

After learning the ins and outs of the kitchen, she  went to the source - Italy. "[Until then], I was always looking for something more real and traditional. I thrive in an environment where I'm extremely challenged and learning and it's new. I was further inspired by the [native] people that would always encourage me to cook, so [when] learning a dish I [received] a lot of affirmation from the culture and Italian and French people that would give me tidbits on their cuisine."

Not only has she learn from friends and patrons of her restaurants, she has surprised a few as well, by simply being a woman. "So often when I was working in Italian cuisine, there would be a group of Italians and they would ask the server 'Can I meet the chef - we would love to thank him' and when I came out and they realized I was an American woman and I spoke Italian, it was always a rewarding moment."

Fig tartine
Photo credit: Buvette 

She continues to surprise her French clientele that are strong in numbers at Buvette, which is always a good sign when the expats are dining in droves. "The French [guests] don't think an American will be making real cou qu vin or tarte tatin or aligot on par with traditional dishes and they are so disappointed when I come out and say "Can I help you?" in English because they assume a French chef is running the kitchen."

Maybe French expats feel so at home because that was William's intention, all along. Buvette is designed to feel like a romantic, yet rustic kitchen in Provence. From the chalked out map of France that details the wine list to the Warren Muller chandelier that hangs above a communal table in the back. You can see old meets new, traditional meets modern. She has nurtured a culture of food and wine where it isn't fussy or put on, but welcoming and accessible.  The bar is lined with small leather baskets filled with nuts, bottles of wine, fresh pastries, glass mason jars and cutlery, all things you would find in Mémé's house.

Photo credit: Buvette 

The love and attention to detail is found on the menu, as well. Williams showcases variations of croque monsieur, tartines, crepes and "just the right size" pastries to go with your morning or afternoon coffee. All are a perfect fit for her made up term of "gastroteque," a place that is suited for any time of day or night. "It can be your cafe, your early morning coffee, luncheonette, your before or after work bite, your indoor or outdoor picnic - it can be anything."

Everything seems smaller to the American eye in Buvette, or to those that aren't aware that Buvette actually means diminutive or small. "I have a strong reaction to everything that is so big. I don't want a croissant the size of my hand or a muffin that's as big as a softball. I want things that are tailored to go with an apertif or coffee or tea." Her restaurant lives by this philosophy where it is a place to gather, a joining of friends. This seems very nuanced at Buvette, but it's a very old concept that Williams has embraced and welcomes New Yorkers with open arms.

wEE Recommend Buvette for Breakfast meetings, lunch with clients, romantic dinner date, late night bite in West Village.

Photo credit: Max Poglia

QuickEE Questions for Chef Jody Williams: 

1. Besides Buvette, where do you like to eat? 
I Sodi - 105 Christopher Street @ Bleecker St. 
Takashi - 456 Hudson Street @ Morton St.
Pearl Oyster Bar - 18 Cornelia Street @ West 4th St.
Taim -  222 Waverly Place @ Perry St.


2. What is your favorite "I just got out of the kitchen and need a drink" drink?
My favorite drink changes with the seasons. I always enjoy a Negroni - I Sodi has the best Negroni in town. I drink Campari and soda like it's water. This summer I was drinking sparkling Gamay. In the winter, I enjoy vin brulé, a mulled wine that warms you right up - I think it's perfect before you go outside and crunch your way through the snow. 


3. What do you think is your greatest responsibility as a chef?
Take care of the world. We all have a responsibility to ensure that our generation isn't stuck eating [food like] GMO salmon and teaching them how to eat real things. There is this whole idea of stewardship [as a chef] which is really great to see.  


by Joleen Zanuzoski, Eatery Expert